The island of desires

by: José Antônio Ramalho



One of the places at the top of most tourists’ dream destination list, Fernando de Noronha is multifaceted.


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It was once an American base, a penal colony and a political jail. During the 15th and 16th Centuries, it was invaded by the French, the Dutch and the English and recaptured by the Portuguese, to which it belonged to since its discovery by Amerigo Vespucci, the Italian sailor who gave his name to our continent. He was in Noronha in 1503, leading an expedition financed by Portuguese aristocrat Fernando de Noronha. From 1942 to 1988,  the island was a federal territory and as a result of the new Constitution, it became part of the state of Pernambuco.

Its residents categorically state: the island is paradise, period. How can you contradict such statement if Vespucci himself said, upon his arrival on Quaresma Island (as it was once called) that he was in paradise? The archipelago is composed by 21 islands, the main one and the secondary ones. In the northeast, Sela Ginete, the second largest island, is reminiscent of a horse saddle. It is surrounded by other islands such as  Rata, Rasa, Meio and Lucena. To the north, the Fora da Conceição Hill and the Dois Irmãos Islands. To the south, the Viuvinha, Morro do Leão, Cabeluda, Chapéu do Sueste, Trinta Réis, Ovos and Frade Islands.

Fernando de Noronha, located 338 miles from Recife, attracts people from all over the world. Famous naturalist Charles Darwin was once there. Now, international celebrities like Spanish actress Penélope Cruz visit the island. If the closest you ever got to Penélope was a first row seat to watch Volver in the movie theatre, Noronha provides you with a unique chance: to sleep in her bed. Just ask for suite number 10 at the Pousada Teju-Açu.

The place has a fascinating history but visitors will surely be enraptured by its natural beauty. Booby Birds, viuvinhas, frigate birds, mouse birds and mumbebos are some of the coastal birds seen in here. Out of the 350 species of cartilaginous sharks in the world, 14 are in Noronha. The nurse shark is the most common one. The Caribbean reef shark, the hammer shark, the tiger shark, the lemon shark, the blacktipshark and the cabeça-de-cesto shark can also be found in the Noronha waters but they never attack bathers.

The island is considered a beacon for environmental conservation. However its original vegetation has been practically annihilated. When it was used as a jail, deforestation was rife in order to prevent inmates from hiding among the vegetation or making canoes to sail away. Although it is possible to come across original species like the gameleira tree, the coral tree and the hyssop spurge on the island, most of the vegetation came from the continent.

Entry to the island is strictly controlled. Visitors must pay an environmental conservation tax that increases according to the length of visit.

The rocky Baía dos Porcos (Pig’s Bay) has many natural aquariums. Two large rocks called Dois Irmãos (Two Brothers) face the bay. The ruins of the St. John the Baptist Fort are located there. Visitors are rewarded with a beautiful view of the turquoise sea dotted by the dark rocks. The Baía do Sancho (Sancho’s Bay) is an excellent place to go snorkeling since it offers great visibility and sea life variety near the water surface. This is also where sea turtles lay their eggs. Sunset at the Boldró Fort lookout is a must-see. From there, you can see the sun between the Dois Irmãos. However, Noronha under the water is probably even more dazzling. Diving in these waters is a unique experience.

This archipelago is one of the best places in the world to go diving. Its crystal-clear waters ,with visibility up to 164 ft., host fishes, rays, sharks, turtles, moray eels, barracudas, dolphins, coral reefs and shipwrecks. Even inexperienced divers can get a close look at the marine life found on the Atalaia Beach, the Sancho and the Sueste Bays or in the natural aquariums in the Baía dos Porcos, where all you need is a diving mask to see an incredible sample of its habitants.
If you want to go scuba diving for the first time, Noronha Divers offers “baptism dives” in which the novice diver is accompanied by an instructor at all times. This was one of the most amazing experiences of my life. The nurse shark, which has become used to tourists, was calmly resting under a rock. But my adrenaline g fwas pumping at its sight. Sea turtles, moray eels and many other species can be seen during these dives. For experienced divers, the Ipiranga corvette, at 210 ft below, is one of the highlights.

Beaches like Laje da Cacimba, Boldró, Ruro and Abrás, with waves ranging from 6.5 ft to 16 ft, attract surfers from all over the world. If you prefer to stay on the shore, you can go on walks or explore the island on a buggy. Dolphins, another trademark of the island, can be seen from the lookout that faces the  Dolphins’ Bay. If you are lucky, you can also see them showing off to tourists on boat rides. Noronha is not a cheap or easy to reach destination but it is worth every cent.